Green is the New Black

The words ‘an iced matcha latte’, preceded by ‘Could I get’, or ‘Please may I have’, or ‘Could I possibly trouble you for’—especially with a request for syrup—constitutes an order paramount to a nightmare for many specialty coffee baristas, myself included. Matcha has become a nemesis, often neglected, rushed, or taken for granted. Frequently squeezed from a premixed bottle, it’s served to ‘matcha lovers’ with the dismissive thought: ‘it’s just trendy, and it’s not coffee.’

However, baristas aren’t solely to blame. Matcha has been trending for a decade, and while its drinks are more popular and Instagrammable than ever, many ‘matcha lovers‘ don’t truly understand what they’re drinking. They rarely question its properties, origins, or flavours, content with an overly sweetened, poorly prepared ‘healthy’ drink, so long as it looks good.

Yet, observing perfectly prepared matcha served in specialty cafes and dedicated matcha bars worldwide makes me wonder: is this widespread mediocrity inevitable, or could things be different? Perhaps the core issue is a lack of fundamental knowledge. By learning matcha’s basics—its history and best practices—we could build a different world: one where customers seek matcha for its inherent properties, not just its appearance, where baristas consistently serve quality matcha, and where matcha and specialty coffee happily coexist.

To better understand matcha’s true place in the coffee world, I contacted various matcha professionals for their opinions.

Matcha 101: From humble origins to global phenomenon

To begin my exploration, I turned to Misato Furumiya, an old friend from Japan. As a board member of the Japanese Tea Instructors Association and an accredited Urasenke instructor (from a leading Japanese tea ceremony school), Misato enthusiastically joined a video call on a cold December night to share matcha’s history.

Misato began by explaining that Chinese monks introduced tea to Japan. Around the 12th century, a method of preparing it by dissolving dried leaves in hot water—similar to how matcha is prepared today—was transmitted. For monks practising zazen meditation and fasting, tea was indispensable for dispelling drowsiness and suppressing appetite. Initially spreading through temples for its medicinal effects, tea later evolved into a refined pastime among the upper classes, nobility, and samurai, involving the appreciation of luxurious Chinese art objects alongside the tea itself. The tea ceremony, deeply rooted in spirituality, embraced simplicity as a virtue and sought inner fulfilment in scarcity. It developed philosophically and aesthetically, reaching its peak in the 16th century. ‘Based on this spirit,’ Misato clarified, ‘the tea ceremony evolved into a setting for sincere exchanges and inner growth. While it involves a set tea preparation ritual, practising these movements also provides a space for self-reflection, emphasizing self-cultivation and perfection.’

This culturally and historically established tea ceremony evolved into the school tea ceremony in the 19th century, aimed at educating the younger generation amid concerns about Westernization eroding Japanese traditions. Matcha remained primarily consumed in Japan until the early 21st century, when Japanese pastry chefs began incorporating it into high-end French pastries, quickly gaining recognition from their French counterparts.

Matcha experienced a sudden surge in global popularity, its worldwide spread beginning with Häagen-Dazs’s ‘Green Tea’ launch in the United States in 1996. This was followed by Starbucks’s Matcha Cream Frappuccino in 2001, marking the first matcha drink from a major coffee chain. Over the next decade, matcha specialty cafes proliferated, particularly in New York, solidifying matcha’s position as a new energy drink category. Matcha lattes, with added milk, made it accessible to a broader audience, including newcomers. Thus, matcha was established in the market and, as they say, the rest is history.

With its inception and traditional rise established, it was time to refresh common knowledge about matcha.

Misato explained, ‘Matcha comes from the Camellia sinensis tea plant. Its raw material, Tencha leaves, are typically harvested around May. New buds are steamed to halt oxidation, then dried, and stripped of stems and veins. Finally, the leaves are shaped into uniform flakes before stone grinding.’

She then provided less commonly known details. ‘When growing Tencha,’ she continued, ‘fields are covered 20 days before harvest to block sunlight. This prevents theanine, an umami component, from converting into catechin, which is astringent. At harvest, new buds are hand-picked for the ‘first flush’, considered superior for taste and aroma. A second harvest, about 45 days later, is often machine-picked and typically considered culinary grade.’

Misato then explained matcha preparation: ‘The tea ceremony distinguishes two types: thick tea (koicha) and thin tea (usucha). Koicha, similar to espresso, uses minimal hot water to highlight its rich umami and is kneaded. Usucha, lighter and more refreshing like a long black, is whisked. Beyond traditional ceremonies, koicha is also frequently added to milk, soya milk, or even beer in Japanese bars, showcasing its versatility.’

Misato then explained matcha preparation: ‘The tea ceremony distinguishes two types: thick tea (koicha) and thin tea (usucha). Koicha, similar to espresso, uses minimal hot water to highlight its rich umami and is kneaded. Usucha, lighter and more refreshing like a long black, is whisked. Beyond traditional ceremonies, koicha is also frequently added to milk, soya milk, or even beer in Japanese bars, showcasing its versatility.’

This prompted a question about matcha’s properties when not served pure. Misato explained, ‘A 2022 study by the Japan Polyphenol Society, “Pharmacokinetics of catechin and theanine when matcha is consumed simultaneously with milk”, found that while the interaction between catechin and casein may slightly reduce antioxidant absorption, it doesn’t significantly compromise its efficacy. The effect on theanine’s pharmacokinetics is negligible.

‘Additionally,’ she continued, ‘a 2009 presentation at the Japan Society for Food Science and Technology conference found that dairy products suppress bitterness more effectively than water. This softening of bitterness broadens matcha’s appeal, increasing satisfaction even with a minor inhibition of antioxidant absorption. Dairy also contributes richness and texture. The combination of reduced bitterness, an enhanced flavour profile, and matcha’s inherent health benefits creates an accessible, luxurious, and health-conscious appeal, generating a strong positive response and boosting its versatility in both beverages and desserts.’

Armed with this understanding of matcha, I was eager to speak with those who work with it daily, particularly about mastering its use in a fast-paced environment. This led me to Chian Ting and Belle Vy, the duo behind one of my favourite matcha cafes.

A mate called matcha

A Melbourne vacation led me to sip iced matcha on a hot morning with Chian and Belle, co-founders of Matcha Mate. They quickly won me over, discussing matcha with the same passion my fellow baristas and I reserve for specialty beans.

Belle explained that Matcha Mate began from a genuine love for matcha and a desire to redefine its experience. Despite its popularity, matcha was often perceived as merely a health trend or coffee alternative, rather than an artisanal product with depth and culture. ‘Our goal,’ she stated, ‘was to create a modern space that respected traditional matcha values. We source directly from Japan, work closely with producers, and prioritize education alongside hospitality. Matcha Mate is both a cafe and a learning space, encouraging mindful savouring and fostering of a deeper relationship with matcha.’

Chian then elaborated on their offerings: ‘We select matcha for balance, clarity, and intention. Each must have a clear identity—umami, creamy, nutty, or vibrant and fresh. We also consider its performance in various applications: some are great alone, others best with milk. We prioritize traceability, cultivar, terroir, and grinding freshness. Ultimately, each matcha should tell a story and have a menu purpose, not be interchangeable. Our main menu focuses on classic preparations—traditional matcha, lattes, iced matcha, and variations in texture or temperature—all designed to let the matcha speak for itself. Our specialties are more playful and seasonal—fruit pairings, unique foams, or dessert-inspired drinks—but always crafted with respect for the matcha, never masking it. A crowd favourite is the Apple Crumble Matcha, featuring Fuji apple puree, soda, matcha, and oat cream.’

Newly motivated to create such beverages myself, I asked for advice.

‘We start by understanding matcha: its flavour profile, bitterness, sweetness, and mouthfeel,’ Belle explained. ‘We seek complementary, not contrasting, flavours. A good matcha drink should still taste like matcha. Balance is key: acidity, sweetness, fat, and temperature are crucial. We also consider its emotional impact: is it comforting, refreshing, playful, reassuring? Our advice: don’t overcomplicate things and always taste with intention.’

One last question puzzled me. I’d seen cafes pre-mixing matcha with water, which felt wrong—comparable to serving an hours-old espresso. Was I mistaken?

‘Pre-mixing saves time but significantly affects freshness, texture, and flavour,’ Chian explained. ‘Oxidation occurs quickly. At Matcha Mate, we avoid pre-mixing, prioritizing better workflows over compromising quality.’

With proper matcha preparation covered, I shifted to a final question: what about customers? As a barista, I have a sense of the ‘average’ specialty coffee lover; though generalizing is difficult, I was curious about their matcha-loving counterpart.

‘We have a wide range of customers,’ Belle concluded. ‘Some seek health benefits, others taste, and some are drawn by trends. Many discover something deeper upon exploration. Matcha often becomes a gateway; people arrive curious and then grow more aware and informed about what they drink.’

As I left the cafe in Melbourne’s late morning, a quick calculation revealed it was two hours earlier in Kyoto—the perfect time to video call a friend deeply involved in both matcha and specialty coffee.

Melding the green with the black: Matcha & coffee

Yozo Otsuki, founder of Kurasu, Kyoto’s renowned specialty coffee company, agreed to share his insights. I picked up where I’d left off, aiming to understand matcha customers through a coffee-centric lens.

‘In our stores, we see two initial mindsets,’ Yozo explained. ‘Some customers come for our coffee; others are already matcha enthusiasts. Initially, choices are distinct: coffee lovers gravitate towards coffee, while matcha lovers prefer matcha. However, once they engage with our menu or team, mutual curiosity often sparks. Trusting our overall quality, customers begin exploring the other side of our craft. Despite this, they largely remain two distinct groups: many matcha enthusiasts aren’t avid coffee drinkers, and many coffee lovers consider matcha an occasional indulgence.’

This dual appeal is a significant strength. When groups visit, matcha acts as a gateway to specialty-beverage culture for non-coffee drinkers, enabling everyone to share a cohesive cafe experience.

The reasons for choosing matcha are diverse. Some consider it a cleaner, less acidic, and calmer caffeine source, while others are drawn to its visual appeal and strong social media presence. Many simply enjoy the flavour, appreciating it as an alternative to coffee, particularly if they dislike its taste. Matcha customers defy a single ‘type’; they represent a growing, diverse audience that cafes should not overlook.

Next, a topic close to my heart: pairing high-quality matcha with specialty coffee. Can they successfully share the same space?

‘Being based in Kyoto, the heart of Japanese tea culture,’ Yozo explained, ‘incorporating matcha was a natural fit for us. Since 2016, we’ve sourced matcha locally from trusted partners and farmers, ensuring a deep understanding of its quality and traceability. Our approach to matcha mirrors that of specialty coffee: it involves knowing producers, respecting the art and origin, paying fair prices, and sharing the product’s story. We primarily source from Kyoto and Uji, with Shizuoka added more recently due to increased demand. Similar to coffee, we select matcha by cupping and testing batches, evaluating its performance with both hot water and in milk-based drinks. We seek matcha that offers the right balance of umami, sweetness, aroma, and vibrancy—qualities that define our standard. We prioritize understanding producers and their challenges, visiting farms, securing yearly batches, and ensuring fair, transparent payment. Given matcha’s deep connection to Kyoto, serving it has always felt natural, but we insist on doing so with integrity. We value the relationships, the artistry of cultivation and processing, and our responsibility to share this story with customers.’

Noting the consistent approach to matcha and coffee selection, I asked if the same care extended to their matcha menu. Yozo’s explanation confirmed that it did:

‘Our matcha menu is deliberately simple, prioritizing product quality. We offer traditional usucha, prepared with hot water, allowing guests to appreciate the tea’s purity. Matcha lattes are available with whole milk or alternatives. We’ve offered a matcha latte with espresso since 2016, well before its widespread popularity, carefully balancing both components so neither overpowers the other. Occasionally, we experiment with seasonal or location-specific drinks, such as whipped matcha in some overseas stores. Even with these visually expressive options, our core intention remains to highlight the matcha itself, without distraction. Whether coffee or matcha, our goal is always to let craftsmanship and origin shine in the cup.’

Yozo was open-minded about matcha, especially its place alongside specialty coffee. However, knowing many in the coffee industry held reservations, I sought a different opinion. Pausing my conversation with Yozo, I called Zjevaun Janga, a competitive barista and founder of Ripsnorter Coffee Roasters in Rotterdam.

Luckily, Zjevaun was awake and happy to chat despite the late hour.

Zjevaun’s perspective on matcha, as I recalled, differed significantly from Yozo’s. ‘Don’t judge me,’ he began, ‘but I just don’t like matcha, and I’m happy not to include it on the Ripsnorter menu; it lets me focus on what I really like.’

He explained he never tried it until it started ‘popping up on every street corner,’ which, he admitted, ‘makes me feel old.’ He admitted there was ‘a proper way to make matcha’ he’d be ‘100 per cent willing to learn,’ but felt that ‘with all the syrups and milk added lately, it just doesn’t feel right for me.’

Despite his personal resistance, Zjevaun was positive about matcha and specialty coffee coexisting. ‘I think they could easily coexist,’ he concluded, ‘but it should be done properly, with respect. The effort to produce both is incredible, and there’s room for both in a cafe. Personally, I still can’t stand the intense bitterness. But then again, I said the same thing when I tried my first espresso…’

Thanking Zjevaun, I returned to Yozo for his final thoughts.

A summation in green & black

Having learned a great deal about matcha, it was time to draw a few conclusions with Yozo’s help. With a decade of experience handling specialty coffee and high-end matcha in fast-paced, trendy environments, he was the ideal person to offer final insights.

‘Even in the trend-driven landscape it currently occupies, matcha can remain a quality product,‘ Yozo explained, ‘if the focus remains on the people and craftsmanship behind it, rather than just how it looks. For me, that means knowing its origin, visiting producers, understanding its growth and processing, and ensuring our team communicates that story. When guests understand what makes matcha special, the ‘trend’ becomes secondary. Matcha doesn’t lose authenticity through modern presentation; it only loses it when the intention behind the product is forgotten.’ He explained that in Japan, where matcha is deeply ingrained in the culture, the Japanese perceive no inherent tension with other beverages. However, he said, ‘we understand why cafes elsewhere might experience this tension, which often stems from a lack of understanding. Matcha production is a complex, intricate process—from shading and harvesting to steaming and milling—with each step critically affecting the final quality.’

Outside Japan, many coffee shop owners primarily encounter mass-market matcha that lacks history, traceability, and craftsmanship. If their only experience is with low-quality, overly sweetened powder, it’s understandable why they might feel it conflicts with the values of specialty coffee. A closer look, however, reveals that matcha and specialty coffee share fundamental values: transparency, respect for producers, provenance, sustainability, and craftsmanship. The solution, therefore, lies in mutual education. Once people grasp how matcha is produced, by whom, and its true quality, they begin to see profound similarities rather than differences. This shift transforms matcha from a perceived threat into a natural partner, ultimately expanding the culture of specialty beverages.

While matcha can undoubtedly thrive in trendy settings and coexist harmoniously with specialty coffee, its recent surge in popularity isn’t without significant drawbacks. Beyond the hype, matcha producers grapple with considerable challenges. My recent return to Misato offered a chance to reflect on matcha’s current state and its future.

Global demand for high-quality matcha, once primarily culinary, has surged dramatically. This has led to shortages and purchase restrictions across Japan, particularly for the ceremonial-grade matcha required by practitioners. While this increased interest is gratifying, many argue that matcha used in mixed beverages doesn’t necessitate ceremonial-grade quality. Calls for tenfold increases in production face the stark reality that tea plants take years to yield a stable harvest, and expanding cultivation has inherent limits. It remains debatable whether supply can truly meet demand while consistently maintaining quality. Furthermore, bulk purchases have sent tea leaf prices skyrocketing, severely impacting operations; even the cheapest third-harvest leaves are now seven times more expensive than last year, escalating costs and straining business viability. It appears that cultural aspects have been largely overlooked in favour of sheer product demand. True enthusiasts, however, seek context and history; fostering a greater appreciation for matcha’s rich culture and heritage would undoubtedly be beneficial.

At any rate, it gives us something to consider the next time we order a matcha drink.