Don’t Call It Normal!

After more than a decade in the specialty coffee industry—both behind the counter and as a customer—I’ve reached a conclusion: coffee, much like life, is unpredictable.

I have served (and drunk) flat whites with milk-to-coffee ratios of 1:1, and others that come in cups as large as soup bowls. I’ve encountered menus featuring 14oz lattes and others promoting lattes smaller than a traditional Italian cappuccino. I have more than once (much more) had customers order a ‘normal coffee’ while envisioning, at least in their minds, espresso, filter, Americano, and more.

No barista wants to see a disappointed customer leave the counter frustrated because their drink didn’t meet their expectations, nor do they like witnessing customers struggle to accept that their ‘normal coffee’ differs from someone else’s. This realization led me to conclude that it may not make sense to view coffee recipes as immutable, despite numerous attempts to define them. The belief that a flat white has a specific definition is almost utopian, especially since there is still no consensus on its origins; the debate between Aussies and Kiwis continues.

But was I right?

To gain clarity on the issue, I organized an impromptu video call with a group of coffee professionals from around the world.

Jessica Sartiani, Barista Market Developer at Oatly and a professional trainer for Brisa Coffee Roasters, joined me virtually from central Bologna. Jordi Mestre, founder and current external consultant at Nomad Coffee, connected from sunny Barcelona. Hiroko Hanna Teramoto, a three-time New Zealand barista champion originally from Japan and now living in New Zealand for 18 years, joined from Auckland, where she works at Mojo Coffee. Matt Lopez, owner and manager of FVC Gallery—a small space dedicated to coffee and art—connected from Walla Walla in the Pacific Northwest od the United States. So we had a good spread for our investigation into normality or otherwise.

With Jessica, Jordi, Hanna, and Matt ready, we set out to kick off our roundtable discussion with a specific goal: to share stories, recipes, and personal experiences to determine whether believing in predetermined coffee recipes—and the existence of so-called ‘normal coffee’—makes sense.

Just a ‘normal coffee’

Recognizing that the topic would be more complex than anticipated, we decided to start with what seemed simplest: defining ‘normal coffee’.

We quickly agreed that the concept of normal coffee is deeply tied to individual history and culture. Each country has its own coffee traditions, established long before the specialty coffee movement, so it is natural for those born in a specific place to view that coffee as ‘normal’.

Hanna shared that in New Zealand, prior to the rise of specialty coffee in the 1990s, ‘normal coffee’ typically meant instant granules at home or filter coffee in cafes, often prepared with plungers or percolators and sometimes left stewing on a hotplate until it turned bitter. In the 1980s, a few cafes serving espresso began to emerge, but they remained far from mainstream, with tea still being the nation’s daily ritual. It wasn’t until the late ’80s and ’90s, when espresso culture took off, that coffee began to gain prominence.

Jordi explained that Spain was quite different. ‘People usually drank solo (a small, strong black coffee), café con leche (half coffee and half milk), or a cortado (espresso with a dash of milk). That was “normal coffee” for most people: simple, no frills, and part of everyday life.’

The coffee scene in Italy was also notably different. As Jessica recalled, ‘Coffee was primarily a social ritual, not something to be savored and analyzed, but something you did. Italians didn’t really drink coffee at home; they went to the bar, the beating heart of daily life, where people stood at the counter, exchanged a few words, and drank an espresso in a matter of seconds. It wasn’t about savoring the taste; it was about rhythm, familiarity, and belonging.’ This culture also fostered enduring myths, such as ‘real coffee is only espresso’ and ‘the darker and more bitter, the better’, which continue to persist despite the rise of specialty coffee.

And then there’s the coffee culture in that behemoth of caffeinated imbibition, the US? As Matt recounted, ‘The widespread cup of overly roasted and stale coffee, one the norm and preference, was joined in the ’90s by the first appearance of the “coffee latte”, an intriguing and innovative espresso-based drink topped with soft foam.’

We had only explored the traditional coffee culture of four countries—a mere fraction of the global coffee-consuming nations—yet we had already uncovered how varied people’s conceptions of ‘normal coffee’ could be.

It was bewildering enough, even for us coffee professionals. We quickly realized that we were likely in for a challenge as we transitioned to our next topic: the most common milk-based drinks typically found on specialty coffee menus worldwide.

Where did they originate? How were they traditionally prepared?

Milk drinks 101

Jordi had already provided some insight as to what a traditional cortado is—‘simply an espresso in a small glass with a dash of milk, with no set recipe, varying greatly from bar to bar.’ We agreed to set aside the latte for now, as there weren’t many intriguing stories about its origins. It was common knowledge that drinks like ‘caffè latte’ or ‘latte macchiato’—espresso served with a large amount of milk—had been present throughout Europe in the 20th century before arriving in Seattle in the ’80s. Therefore, we decided to focus on the two cornerstones of specialty milk drinks: cappuccino and flat white.

‘Few symbols represent Italy abroad as powerfully as a steaming cappuccino,’ Jessica shared. ‘Yet behind it lies a rich history of travel, cultural exchange, and technical inventions. The name itself tells a story: it is said that the light brown color of the coffee and milk resembles the habit of the Capuchin friars. As early as the 18th century in Vienna, the term Kapuziner was used to describe coffee mixed with cream or milk—dark but sweetened—quite different from our modern cappuccino. From there, the word made its way to Italy, where it evolved into its definitive form in the 20th century, following the invention of the espresso machine in the post-war period. It was during this time that the cappuccino became a morning ritual, inseparable from breakfast at the bar, often served with a brioche. The contemporary myth of cappuccino is twofold: on one hand, it is seen as a centuries-old Italian tradition; on the other, it has become a global icon, exported everywhere in countless variations. However, in Italy, it still adheres to an unwritten rule: cappuccino is reserved for the morning, never after lunch, to avoid the amused or scandalized gaze of the traditional barista.’

Next, it was Hanna’s turn to discuss the origins of the flat white, a topic that sparks considerable debate.

‘Both New Zealand and Australia claim to have invented the flat white, and its exact birthplace remains controversial,’ Hanna explained. ‘What we do know is that it originated in the mid-1980s as a response to the cappuccinos of the time, which were topped with a thick layer of foam. The flat white offered something different: a smaller cup with a double espresso, frothed milk, and just a thin layer of microfoam. The names most often associated with its origin are Fraser McInnes in Wellington and Alan Preston in Sydney, both legends on either side of the Tasman. In New Zealand, the “standard” recipe hasn’t changed much since then: a double espresso in a 150–170ml (5–6oz) cup, topped with about half a centimeter of fine microfoam—just enough to live up to its name.’

The history and theory behind these drinks seemed straightforward enough, yet we all knew that in everyday practice, things were much more confusing. It was time to quickly discuss some of the specialty coffee variations of these classic milk-based drinks.

Different country, different customs

I was already familiar with the wide variation in coffee menus; I had served giant lattes in Amsterdam, small lattes in Portugal, double cappuccinos in Berlin, and single flat whites in Italy. However, I was still surprised by the different approaches that could be applied to a few simple drinks.

Jordi shared Nomad’s philosophy, which emphasizes not only the consistency and quality of all drinks but also specific recipes. For instance, a flat white is made with a double espresso (1.2–1.4oz; 36–40g) and 100ml (3.4oz) of frothed milk, served in a 160ml (5.4oz) ceramic cup. Both lattes and cappuccinos follow the same recipe of a single espresso (0.6–0.7oz; 18–20g) and 120ml (4oz) of milk, served in the same 160ml (5.4oz) cup. ‘We make no distinction between the two in terms of foam; the consistency and quantity are exactly the same, he explained. ‘The cortado is the exception; we serve it in a small 80ml (2.7oz) glass with a single espresso and 60ml (2oz) of milk. We heat all our milk to 55–60C to ensure a uniform and silky texture across all drinks. While we appreciate beautiful latte art, it is not our primary focus. More importantly, we aim to perfect the espresso and milk so that every barista can consistently and efficiently replicate the same drink.’

Hanna from Mojo Coffee explained their recipes: ‘Flat whites and cappuccinos are both served in 180g (6oz) cups with a 30g (1oz) double shot. The difference lies in the milk’s consistency—silky and flat for flat whites, frothier for cappuccinos. Cappuccinos are typically topped with chocolate powder, but customers can request them “nude” (without powder) or with cinnamon. Lattes are served in 300ml (10oz) cups, always with a double shot, which provides a creamier balance and a stronger milk flavour. Cortados are rarely ordered, but piccolos are much more common, served in 120ml (4oz) glasses and made with a single espresso (we prepare a double, then mix it and divide it into two glasses). Each coffee is finished with latte art on the surface, adding a personal touch to every cup.’

Brisa takes a different approach by serving both cappuccinos and flat whites in 160ml (5.4oz) cups, while lattes are offered in larger glasses, with all drinks featuring latte art. Jessica explained, ‘For all espresso-based drinks, we ask customers if they prefer a completo (double espresso) or a single shot. However, for single-origin coffee, we always serve a completo.’

Matt shared another perspective: ‘With the rise of microfoam milk and advanced latte-art techniques, all espresso and milk-based drinks are essentially “lattes” with different ratios of milk to espresso.’ He noted that while ‘a cappuccino may have slightly more foam than a flat white, in a busy cafe, the drinks are fundamentally espresso and frothed milk, each prepared with some variation in latte art.’

A few tricks for an easier coffee life

After chatting for a while and exchanging recipes and stories, we reached a consensus: there is no single way to make coffee; recipes are not set in stone, and a ‘normal coffee’ does not exist.

So how can customers ensure they are satisfied with their orders? And how can baristas and coffee shop owners facilitate this?

Customers can improve their experience by becoming more aware of their personal preferences, especially when ordering in a new cafe. Asking specific questions like ‘How do you make cappuccino?’ or ‘I enjoy coffee with one shot of espresso and 180ml (6oz) of milk. What do you recommend?’ or even ‘Can you show me the cup you use for cappuccinos?’ can help them choose something they are likely to enjoy.

For cafes, providing menus with clear explanations of the main coffee drinks can be helpful. Simplifying the options, such as including only a few milk-based drinks on the menu, can enhance clarity. At Nomad, as Jordi explained, ‘a latte, a cappuccino, a café con leche, and a café au lait are all considered the same.’

Finally, having an experienced and friendly barista who is humble and willing to listen can be crucial in making the perfect drink for every customer, even those who simply ask for ‘just a normal coffee’.

As Jordi aptly noted, ‘There is no single universal way to interpret that order. I have travelled all over the world and realized that “a coffee” varies in meaning depending on the region. For many, it is often linked to black coffee, shaping their expectations when they order. During my time working behind the bar, such orders often sparked delightful conversations with customers about their backgrounds and how that influences their choice and drink preparations.’

And isn’t that sort of thing—the connection, the conversation, the multitude of little quirks that lend the coffee world its richness… Isn’t that what being a barista is all about?