Andy Hearnden

Morning, Andy—or should I say evening? We’re about as far apart as it’s possible to be, you in Sydney and I in London. Getting straight to it as my first coffee of the day kicks in, I’m as guilty as anyone of indulging in a bit of food porn on YouTube, and I’ve noticed that many creators come to producing food content as enthusiasts rather than professional chefs. Do you think people should earn their stripes before teaching others how to cook?

I think that having worked in professional kitchens and coming from a place of authority is a significant aspect of what makes my content stand out. But there are creators like H Woo Lee, a Korean-American from LA, who’s a phenomenal cook despite never having worked professionally in a kitchen. The same applies to coffee; many people can make better coffee at home than what you find in most cafes.

Where do you think this phenomenon of exceptional home chefs and baristas originates?

I think the internet has opened up a whole new world for people to access information in different ways. Some people enjoy reading intense cookbooks, but I’m not a huge reader. Like a lot of people, I mostly consume content through videos. On top of that, food has evolved significantly over the last 20 years, especially in the environment I grew up in.

You grew up in Wellington, New Zealand, right? What was the food culture like in your experience?

Yeah, I spent the first 10 years of my life in Wellington and the next 10 in Auckland. My mum cooked most of our meals—nothing extravagant or fancy, just meat and three veg. But we always ate together as a family, never in front of the TV.

It was similar for me growing up. As an adult, I’ve had to fight the urge to watch screens to be present in the moment, but when I was a kid, that was just how it was!

I think it’s coming back. I see it in my nieces and nephews, who are young adults; they’re actively limiting the time they spend on their phones. It’s an interesting observation. For a long time, people didn’t eat at the table, but it feels like that tradition is returning.

Do you think part of the reason people are putting down their phones and turning away from screen time is due to the AI-generated dross that is being pumped out? Content like yours feels very genuine and personal; do you think that contributes to your success?

You’re absolutely right. There’s a lot of poor-quality AI slop out there. And on top of that, the world feels a bit broken at the moment, and it’s pretty hard to switch off and focus on what you have control over. The sort of thing that allows me that agency is something like learning to cook a dish from Uganda, or from Somalia and posting about it. It’s not only rewarding for its own sake, but it feels like a bit of a punk way to be pro-globalization.

Do you think an element of consistency across your videos is part of what’s made your work so successful?

We realized pretty early on that we needed a hook to grab attention quickly. I think the first big success was the ‘Hey Babe, what do you want for lunch?’ format. From there, it was just a matter of locking in and making heaps of that content until it stopped working, basically. I don’t make many of those videos anymore. I do every now and then, but I think of it as my Nevermind, the Nirvana album—you know, like playing the hits.

So, it’s a kind of fan service. Those videos are really relatable; I can see why they resonated with so many people.

I think it appeals to everyone in a relationship, whether you’re the cook or the one making requests, right? Because if you’re the cook and you get an instant answer, that’s incredible. If you’re the person asking for anything in the world and receive a ‘yes’, that’s also amazing.

When you were starting out making content, did you find aspects of the process—like sound, videography, or editing—challenging?

When I started making videos in November 2021, I had no idea how to film anything. I had no idea how to use editing software or how to talk to a camera, which is actually the hardest part. It was challenging. For the first couple of months, I preferred to film alone. Eventually, I became more comfortable with it, and now I couldn’t care less. The other day, I spoke in front of a camera to 60,000 fans at a rugby match. I taught myself to edit, shoot, light scenes, and make audio sound good—literally through repetition. For the first two years, I posted a piece of short-form content every day, sometimes twice a day. I would work during the day, come home, cook dinner, film it, and then edit while eating my dinner, posting it that night. I’m pretty driven and committed to posting every day until I figured it all out. That repetition of making videos daily really helps you improve.

Now you have a team and a studio; when did you decide you needed some help?

After about eight or nine months. I had a friend, Mitch, who was a landscape photographer, come and help me out occasionally. Within two months, he was working for me full-time. Then his partner, Daz, joined us, and eventually, my partner Katelyn quit her job to work with us as well. From there, it just kind of snowballed.

Do you miss working in restaurants?

We’re doing a YouTube series called In Service, where I’m spending two days at incredible restaurants. It gives me a little taste of that world. Plus, I get to rock up and do the fun jobs—shaking hands and eating the food—so it’s the most enjoyable aspects of the industry without the graft.

With In Service, you’re giving people behind-the-scenes access to these amazing kitchens. What stories are you trying to tell?

My content’s evolving a lot. I really enjoy storytelling, particularly the stories within the industry and about food in general. I often tell my team that food is actually the least important aspect of these stories; it’s really about people and their experiences. Kitchens are fascinating places filled with a misfit group of people striving for perfection. You find the most unlikely relationships and friendships among people from all walks of life, and they often have a bit of a rebellious streak—myself included; I’m a full-blown degenerate. People like me are drawn to the chaos, the pressure, and the adrenaline that comes with each night, which creates a wealth of interesting stories.

Do you plan on creating more travel content, perhaps exploring a place through the lens of specific foods?

I’d love to get back into making that type of content. However, it’s really expensive to produce, so unless we secure sponsors, it doesn’t make financial sense. I have a big team now, and I need to cover the bills. I would love to share more of those stories, though; we’ll see.

Do you enjoy being an employer?

I do! I spent a lot of my career managing kitchens, and for a long time, I probably didn’t have the best relationship with managing people. This is largely because many people in hospitality roles find themselves in management roles without ever being taught how to lead effectively. I want to create a work environment where people are eager to come to work, where they feel they have a voice and can share their ideas.

What does the creative process look like within your team?

We emphasize open channels of feedback. I want to provide feedback clearly, quickly, and directly, but this approach isn’t for everyone, so, we make that clear during interviews. I want everyone to feel comfortable pitching ideas, but I also want them to be at ease when I say I don’t like an idea.

Can you give an example of an idea you didn’t like, or that didn’t come off?

We had an idea for a spinny wheel concept. I thought it was going to be great; I called it the ‘Wheel of Comfort Food’, but it turned out to be terrible. No one liked the video, so I decided not to make it again.

So, you don’t always know that you won’t be happy with a video before making it?

There must be hundreds of bad concepts that have been created, and thousands more that haven’t even been attempted. I’m very comfortable with acknowledging when something didn’t perform. I just cross it off and move on. We’re lucky now to have so many analytics at our disposal. I think people get attached to their creative ideas and convince themselves that they’re great. The truth is, if people think it’s great, it’ll get millions of views.

Restaurant cooking and cooking for the camera seem quite different—almost like TV acting versus stage performance.

Cooking on camera, especially in my line, is very much educational. There’s that classic saying: if you want to learn how to do something well, teach it. I think making all these videos has actually made me a better chef because I understand my actions better. You have to slow down and consider why you’re doing certain things, which ultimately makes you a far better cook overall.

Sydney is in a league of its own when it comes to breakfast food and the incredible offerings at coffee shops. Is there anything you would change about the type of food people are serving?

I think it’s really tough these days with margins being so thin, so I understand why they don’t take more risks. It’s usually Shakshuka, baked eggs, a hot cake, or a pancake. Don’t get me wrong; I don’t think there’s anywhere in the world that can compete with Australian cafe culture, but I believe that innovative creativity is being squeezed out by tight margins.

Is there anything you think home cooks often get wrong?

I think some people are afraid of salt. They’ve been taught that it’s the enemy, so they use too little or add it at the wrong time or to the wrong thing. For example, if you have a thick cut steak, you need to be generous with your salt, adding it to all sides. A lot of the salt will come off in the pan anyway so don't under-salt your steak!

In addition to being a professional chef, you’re also an amateur coffee farmer. I saw your video where you harvested, processed, roasted, and brewed coffee from your own Arabica plant!

Haha, yes, that’s right! I was given that plant a long time ago as a desk decoration when I was working a corporate job in Melbourne. We took it with us to Queensland, and since then, I’ve had about three harvests from it. I’ve processed it every time and filmed it twice.

How does the coffee taste?

The last batch was over-roasted—it was way too dark—but it’s never great anyway. We’re not really in the right environment to grow good coffee. But it’s still fun.

Back when you worked at St. ALi, the renowned coffee roastery in Melbourne, you managed the kitchen, focusing more on the food side. Did that experience shape the way you viewed coffee?

Absolutely. I was drinking some of the best coffees in the world every morning, which was nice. Working with that team heightened my awareness of how seriously coffee was being taken at that time, around 2015 and 2016. The baristas there were making a thousand coffees a day at a very high level. With champion baristas like Shinsaku Fukayama and Matt Perger on the bar every day, it felt like being at the centre of a scene that was kind of leading the world in specialty coffee.

And these days, how do you prefer your coffee? In a cafe or at home?

I might be a little naughty now; I grind my coffee the day before. I get up before five a.m., so I don’t want to turn on the grinder and wake Katelyn up. I typically have two filter coffees and a couple of double espressos, and that’s me done for the day.

Do you have any hobbies, or is this one of those cases where your job is also your hobby and passion?

It’s very much the latter! I train at the gym every morning, mainly for my mental health. I enjoy watching Formula One and stuff like that, but I’m mostly focused on work. I’m trying to improve my work–life balance, but it’s a struggle. I feel responsible for making sure everyone gets paid and everything runs smoothly.

And I have a strong desire to excel, which can be detrimental because I’m rarely satisfied. I keep myself busy; we have two YouTube channels, and post short-form content three to four times a week. I’m currently writing my second cookbook, and on top of that, I have various brand commitments and in-person events. There’s always a lot to do, and I often feel guilty if I take a day off.

I suppose at least you’re still seeing your partner since you and Katelyn work together! Was it hard to start working together initially? I guess you see each other a lot more than if you were working in a restaurant with those late nights and long hours.

I think there are positives and negatives to everything. It was tough for the first six months, but it taught us is to be really good communicators, which is a healthy thing for any relationship. Now I love it. I really enjoy working with Katelyn; we have clear responsibilities and rarely step on each other’s toes. It works well for us, but I can see how it might not work for everyone. For me, it’s the best thing ever because the person I trust most in life has my back with all this.

A question I’ve always wanted to ask a chef, no doubt because of all the films and tv shows set in restaurants that depict a customer sending back a dish: is the customer always right?

No, never! What what does that matter? That the customer is not right doesn’t mean that you should tell them that. It’s about being hospitable. Sometimes, if someone’s expressing an opinion you don’t agree with and it’s harmless, you should usually just go along with it gracefully to ensure they have a great experience, then rant about it in the kitchen where your voice is drowned out by the chaos!

So it’s about dealing gracefully with people you disagree with? Perhaps everyone should work in a busy restaurant!

I believe everyone should work in hospitality for at least a year of their life. It should be like national service. You interact with people from all walks of life and realize they aren’t that different. We all wake up and take a shit in the morning, after all.